Home Responsibilities

If you’re not getting hot water as normal, it may be because your boiler pressure is too low, or sometimes too high. Ideally, the gauge should read between 1 and 1.5. But if it reads less than 1 bar, your boiler pressure is too low and needs re-pressurising.  There are two main reasons why your boiler’s losing pressure.

Firstly, leaks anywhere in the system can lead to a loss of water pressure – so look around your pipes, radiators and boiler for any damp patches. Never look inside your boiler though – only a Gas Safe engineer should do this. And if you do or do not find a leak, book an engineer to take a look.

Similarly, bleeding your radiators can lead to a loss of boiler pressure, so it’s important to re-pressurise your boiler afterwards.

Put simply, re-pressurising your boiler means allowing more water to enter the system. And most modern combi boilers rely on a filling loop to do this.

While most boilers and filling loops follow the same process, always check the manufacturer’s booklet for your boiler before starting.

• Switch off the boiler and allow it to cool down.
• Find the filling loop – this is a flexible, silver pipe with a valve at either end. Double-check that it’s securely attached to the boiler’s pipes.
• Open up both valves so that they’re in line with the pipe to allow cold mains water into the system. You should be able to hear it.
• Wait for the water pressure to reach between 1 and 1.5 on the pressure gauge.
• Once it has, shut off both valves one after the other.
• Switch the boiler back on and, if needed, press the reset button.
• Undo both ends of the filling loop and remove from the pipes. Be careful to catch any water spillage and remember to keep the loop in a safe place.

We have various heating and ventilation systems across our homes. You can learn more about your heating and ventilation from your Home User Guide, including how to operate them and any responsibilities you have in maintaining them.

All L&G customers should do their best to minimise the damage caused by leaks in your home by isolating the water leak until a qualified professional can fix the issue.

If your home is within the defect liability period (your home has been built within the past 12 months) you can report any leaks to our Aftercare Team. Otherwise, as a shared owner, it is your responsibility to repair a leak in your own home. We ask that you please contact a qualified and trusted plumber.  

Isolating the leak

• Once you have determined you have a leak, switch off the internal stopcock. You can find its location in your Home User Guide.
• Run your kitchen or bathroom tap until the water dries up. When there is no water, you have successfully switched off your internal stop cock.
• Report the leak.

A leak may not always be obvious in your home, but it can be quietly wasting water and potentially costing you money. Here are some signs to look out for:

• Water where there usually isn’t any.
• A drop in your water pressure in your home.
• Damp patches on the ground.
• Noisy pipework.
• Your water meter reading or bill has gone up significantly.
• A particularly lush patch of grass or plants, particularly during dry weather.

Your water supplier may have some helpful hints and tips for cutting your water usage. Find out your water supplier here.

Extractor fans help in removing moisture, odours and airborne pollutants, ensuring a healthier living environment. However, like any other appliance, extractor fans can accumulate dust and grime over time, which can reduce their efficiency. Regular cleaning is essential to keep them running optimally.  

Reduced efficiency, noisy operation and visible dust and grime can all be signs that it is time to clean your extractor fan.

Before starting the cleaning process, please ensure that the fan is switched off, and if you can, also unplug it from the mains supply. You should only need to use hot soapy water when you remove the grille to remove any grease accumulated. The hot soapy water should be sufficient on the outside also but please be mindful to use a soft cloth or sponge that won’t scratch.

Bleeding radiators is important to remove trapped air to ensure your radiators heats your home efficiently and cost-effectively.  Only hot water radiators require bleeding (not electric).

How do I know if my radiator needs bleeding?

• Feel your radiators- if it is hot at the bottom but cold at the top when on, turn off your heating and bleed your radiator using the steps below.
• Noises- gurgling, clunking or banging noises when you turn on your heating can indicate there is trapped air.
• Dampness- damp patches or mildew on wall may indicate that your radiators are not working properly and require bleeding

What will I need?

• A radiator bleed key (or flat head screwdriver for more modern radiators)

• A spare cloth or towel (that you don’t mind getting dirty)
• A container

Steps to follow:

• Turn the heating off- let your radiator cool down for 20-30 minutes to avoid burning yourself with hot water.
• Locate your radiator’s bleed valve- this is usually located on the side of the radiator, at the top. If you need to bleed multiple radiators, please start on the ground floor, with the radiator furthest from your boiler.
• Place a container under the radiator’s bleed valve- this will help catch any water that may drip from the valve.
• Insert your radiator bleed key and slowly open the valve, turning the key anticlockwise until you hear a hissing sound. Please only open the valve a maximum of half-a-turn, so the water doesn’t escape too quickly.
• When water starts to leak out, please close the valve by turn the radiator bleed key clockwise.
• Repeat the steps above for all the radiators that require bleeding.
• Check your boiler’s pressure . After bleeding several radiators, your boilers pressure may drop. See our guidance on how to do that above.
• Increase the boiler pressure if needed- the boiler’s pressure indicator should be between the 1.0 and 2.0 bar.
• Turn your heating on, giving your radiators ample time to heat up and checking that your radiators have no cold areas at the top.

Condensation on your windows does not always mean that there is a problem. It exists when the air is humid in the home. Condensation can damage clothes, bedding, floor coverings, decorations and the home itself if mould growth takes hold on the walls and ceilings. It is important to try and prevent condensation where possible. To help deal with condensation you can take the following steps:

Produce less moisture
Certain activities produce a lot of moisture. It is helpful to be conscious of minimising the amount of moisture you produce when for example boiling kettles, and cooking.

• Use lids on all pans when cooking (this helps save on fuel too!)
• If possible, dry clothes in a cool area of your home.
• Wipe up wet surfaces after use e.g. bathroom tiles, kitchen worktops and sinks.

• When using a non-vented tumble dryer, please ensure you open windows to remove any moisture.

Ventilate to remove moisture
You can ventilate your home without making draughts. Some ventilation is needed to get rid of the moisture that is produced all the time.

• Consider having a window ajar when someone is in the room.
• You need much more ventilation in the kitchen during cooking so you should open a nearby window and turn on the extractor fan.
• Close the bathroom door when this room is in use. This stops the moisture reaching other rooms, especially the bedrooms that are often colder and more likely to suffer from condensation.
• Leave a space between the back of the furniture and walls and if possible do not position wardrobes, beds and large pieces of furniture touching external walls or windows.
• While drying clothes indoors, consider ventilation.
• Always keep your trickle vents at the top of your windows open.

Cleaning away your condensation should be done regularly when it occurs. An absorbent cloth is enough to wipe away any condensation on your windows. Please pay special attention to the frame and ensure they are dry to reduce the chance of mould growing. If you have a window-vac these can be particularly useful for this task. To learn more about ventilating your home and condensation, you can watch this video: Informing Your Residents of Damp & Mould

Most of our properties are fitted with mains operated smoke detectors fixed to the ceilings. If you are not sure if yours is, please refer to your Home User Guide. The detectors have a battery backup in case of mains failure. Detectors should be regularly tested in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. If you hear the occasional bleeping noise, it means you should fit new batteries.

Beware of cables and pipes within the wall, never fix directly above or below a switch or socket nor either side horizontally to a switch or socket – this is called the “no fix” zone and is 300 mm wide. Cable and pipe detectors can be bought from most DIY and hardware stores and should be used before attempting any fixing.

Care needs to be taken when making fixings to plasterboard walls. Very light items may be fixed by using adhesives to the manufacturer’s instructions but be careful – the bond can be no stronger than the adhesion of the paint to the wall and if you decide to remove the item in the future you may damage the paintwork or the plasterboard.

Pictures, if not too large, and other small items may be hung on picture hooks, either single or double nail types. Heavy pictures and mirrors should not be hung on picture hooks. Instead use a special wall plug fixing specifically designed for fixing to plasterboard. The special wall plugs are available from hardware and DIY shops. If fixing through wall tiles, keep the end of the wall plug level with the plaster face and not the face of the tile.

The electricity wires from your meter go to a distribution board in your Utility Cupboard. This board has a main switch and several Miniature Circuit Breakers (MCBs), each labelled to show which part of your home it protects, such as lighting, power sockets, or the cooker.  

If something causes the power to trip, like a faulty plug or a blown bulb, you can reset it easily by switching the relevant MCB back to the ON position. There’s no need to replace any fuses. If this continues to trip, please report this to a qualified electrician.

This is one of the most common household maintenance tasks, and well worth knowing. The most important thing to remember is to switch off the light and unplug it if it’s a lamp.  Then wait for the old bulb to cool. You also need to know the wattage and fitment type (bayonet or screw) of your bulb so you can buy the right replacement.

Screw top light bulbs: Turn the old bulb anticlockwise to loosen and remove, then screw the new one in clockwise.

Bayonet light bulbs: Push the old bulb slightly to release the prongs, then turn it anticlockwise to loosen and remove. Push the new bulb in, then screw it in clockwise.

As an L&G customer, you have a responsibility to clean your home. Regular cleaning helps to prevent issues, such as unwanted pests and damp and mould as well as limescale build-up.

All L&G homes do not require specialist (or certain brands of) cleaning products. We kindly ask that you clean your home with cleaning products as intended, such as floor cleaner for floors.

It is important to not leave out any rubbish or material which attracts pests to your home or communal areas. If you live in an apartment where we are responsible for communal areas, such as bin stores, we will clean these regularly but it is important for all customers to ensure they dispose of any rubbish properly.  

If you have a constant issue with pest, which have not gone away using products available in DIY stores, please contact your Management Provider to discuss the issue further.  

Large items or large packaging may not be collected with your general waste in the weekly collection.

Please contact your local authority to arrange a collection, which you can find here. Alternatively, you can find out more where to recycle your rubbish here or look up where your local tip is.

Sometimes your doors may sound a bit squeaky or look a bit rusty. Oiling your door hinges helps to reduce wear and tear on the mechanism, expanding its lifespan. It helps to remove squeaky noises and can prevent rust.

Door Hinges

• Purchase a suitable lubricant that can penetrate the grime and coating the interior.

• Find the hinge pin- look for the round hinge pin that sits between the flat plates on the hinge. This hinge pin holds the hinge plates together and will need to be removed to lubricate the hinge effectively.
• Remove the hinge pin on one of the hinges. Open the door and pull out the pin. On some hinges, you may be able to use your fingers, but it’s likely you’ll need to use long pliers to move the pin counterclockwise to remove it.
• Clean off the grime and grease from the old hinge pin.
• Apply a thing coat of lubricant directly onto the hinge pin.
• Push the hinge pin back into place and ensure its secured.
• Open and close the door several times to work the lubricant into the hinge. If the door continues to squeak, please remove steps 2-6 on the next hinge until there is no more squeaking.
• Use a cloth (one you don’t mind staining) to wipe away any excess dust from the hinge area.

Window hinges
Just like your door hinges, your window hinges may need a bit of oiling, particularly if your windows are a bit stiff. Oiling your hinges can also protect your windows from rusting.

• Cleaning the hinges: Open your windows to extend the hinge as wide as it can go. Then use a soft brus or cloth to gently remove and debris until the hinge is clear. Be careful not to lean too far out when cleaning the hinges. For any stubborn dirt, please use a mild detergent or window cleaner to make those hinges shine! Make sure the hinges are dry so they are ready for the next step.
• Finding the right lubricant: For the best results, use a silicone spray like WD-40 or a graphite powder. It’s best to steer clear of heavier oils or greases for your window hinges which tend to accumulate more dirt and debris over time.
• Application: If your lubricant comes as a spray, you can simply spray or let a few drops fall onto the hinge’s moving parts. If you’re using a graphite powder, gently rub.
• Finishing touches: Once the lubricant is applied to the hinges, allow it to spread out over the hinges by carefully opening and shutting the door several times. If you see any hinge lubricant left over, just wipe it off with a clean cloth.

If your home is in a block, you may have a bin chute on each floor. You can find the location of your bin chute in your Home User Guide. Here are some tips:

• Separate waste into each separate type, usually into general and recycling.
• Wrap your waste, using a pedal bin liner or a plastic bag, like a supermarket bag.
• Do not throw discarded cigarettes into the chute.
• Do not throw loose glass or breakable items into the shoots. Please always put them in a bag and tie the bag shut.
• Do not force oversize or bulky item into the chute. For disposing of bulk/large rubbish items, please see below.

Large items or large packaging may not be collected with your general waste in the weekly collection.

Please contact your local authority to arrange a collection, which you can find here. Alternatively, you can find out more where to recycle your rubbish here or look up where your local tip is.

If you suspect there is fly tipping in your communal bin store, for instance leaving bulk/large rubbish items that do not fit in the bins in the communal bin store, please report this to your management provider.

Extractor fans help in removing moisture, odours and airborne pollutants, ensuring a healthier living environment. However, like any other appliance, extractor fans can accumulate dust and grime over time, which can reduce their efficiency. Regular cleaning is essential to keep them running optimally.  

Reduced efficiency, noisy operation and visible dust and grime can all be signs that it is time to clean your extractor fan.

Before starting the cleaning process, please ensure that the fan is switched off and if you can also unplug. Using a damp cloth clean the exterior of the fan to remove surface dust and grime. To clean the interior, you will need to remove the cover, and depending on the model you may need a screwdriver to remove the cover. Use the brush attachment on your vacuum to remove any loose dust from the blades and interior. Mix a small amount of mild detergent in water, dampen your cloth in the soapy water, wring out the excess water and wipe the blades and interior gently. Please make sure that all is completely dry before reassembly.

Blockages here are normally caused by a build-up of hair and soap and become noticeable when the basin starts drain away more slowly. If a blockage occurs and the sink is full of water, try to remove the blockage by using an appropriate sink unblocking product, which can be purchased at hardware shops and supermarkets. With care, you could try pushing a flexible rod down the plughole or by using a suction cup plunger to force water up and down the waste pipe.

Never flush disposable nappies, wipes (even the wipes that say they’re flushable), sanitary items, food or similar items down the toilet, as these can cause a serious blockage.

It is a good idea to check your sealant around the sanitary ware in your bathroom regularly to check for any peeling, cracking, damage or discolouration. The sealant protects against water making its way behind the sanitary ware and the potential for mould to grow.

There are many different products on the market to carry out this job and plenty of advice on the internet. This is what we would classify as a skilled job for any DIY enthusiast and if you are not confident, one for the professionals.

An unclean shower head can mean the nozzles have become clogged with limescale, restricting the flow of water.

You can clean your shower head using products you may have in your kitchen cupboard already.

Cleaning your shower head using baking soda:

• Remove the shower head (these normally screw off quite easily!) If you are unsure about how to remove your shower head, look up the model online.
• In a bowl, mix three tablespoons of baking soda with enough water to form a thick paste.
• Carefully apply the mixture to the shower and let it sit for 30 minutes.
• Scrub the mixture into the shower head. We recommend using a toothbrush (one you don’t intend to use again!) to help remove the limescale off the nozzles.
• Rinse the shower head thoroughly in warm water.
• Attach the shower head back (make sure you do this tightly, so no water drips out the sides!).
• Run the shower for 30 seconds, ensuring all the limescale is out of the nozzles.

Alternatively, there are many descaler products you can use, and they can be found at the supermarket. We recommend following the instructions of your chosen product as these products contain strong chemicals.  

Once your shower head is limescale free, it can be simple to keep it that way. Taking a few seconds to wipe off any surface water on your shower heard after every shower can help reduce limescale buildup.  

A beautiful garden doesn’t happen by accident. Most of our gardens are supplied with turf and a patio area. The turf is the higher maintenance of the two areas and looking after it starts soon after moving in. The time of year you move in will determine how you maintain your lawn to keep it luscious and green.

October – April: These are typically wet months, and it is advisable to aerate the lawn to assist with drainage during these months. This will allow the soil to not become saturated and allow the turf to ‘take’ and not wash away. This is easiest to do with a garden fork by pressing holes into the turf at regular intervals.

May – September: These are typically the drier months and regular watering of the lawn is necessary (be careful not to drown the lawn). As with the winter months, aerate the lawn so that the water can feed the soil and allow the turf to properly take root and not die off.